Bibhu Mohapatra SS’14

Friday 17 January 2014 by

Bibhu Mohapatra’s designs are subtle creations, with added detail that transforms a simple thing to something of wonder. In his Spring/Summer collections, he has come in to his own, showing off a creative flair that was otherwise muted. He is one of my favourite Designers to watch, as his almost shy forays on to the catwalk never fail to impress, without the dazzling brilliance of some of the bigger names.

In his pre-SS’14, ruffled chiffon adorned silk shirtdresses, and keyhole-cutouts added smooth edges to a crisp campaign. The flock-like pattern was inspired by a part of India colonised by the French, and a structure of minimal architecture accentuated the shape. It was a carefully planned collection that shows a new Designer starting to explore.

In his Ready-to-Wear, we instantly saw more bravery. Inspired by dancer Wendy Whelan, the digitised print displayed a brazen palash (a brilliant-red Indian tree-flower) in a range of hues. The gold palash blouse with contrasting green pencil skirt was a favourite of mine instantly, but vibrant dashes of coral, black and fuschia made this collection feel like it had a heartbeat of its own. 3D floral adornment added to this feel, with a rosy mousseline gown with baby tulips, and a nude crepe blow with reddish-orange and purple daisies. The smooth, sweeping lines were broken by shattered-glass patterns and inverted pleats, to round off a collection that felt thoughtful, elegant, and most of all, wearable.

Take a look at some of my favourites from the collections:

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See the full Pre-SS’14 collection here.

See the full RTW SS’14 collection here.

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